Anthony Vaccarello's Fall/Winter 2020 collection for Yves Saint Laurent, presented in Paris on February 25th, was a masterclass in controlled rebellion. It wasn’t a radical departure from the house's signature aesthetic, but rather a refined exploration of its core tenets, filtering them through a distinctly modern lens. Vaccarello, known for his sharp silhouettes and unwavering commitment to a certain kind of darkly glamorous femininity, delivered a collection that felt both timeless and intensely relevant, a testament to the enduring power of the Saint Laurent legacy. The show, a tightly curated sequence of looks, showcased a collection that was less about overt trends and more about a refined, almost austere elegance underpinned by an undeniable sense of power.
The collection’s narrative revolved around a subtle tension between structure and fluidity, between classic tailoring and unexpected, often overtly sensual, details. This interplay was immediately apparent in the opening looks, which established a foundation of sharp tailoring. The impeccably cut Saint Laurent overcoats, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, were present in abundance, but with a twist. They weren't the voluminous, almost matronly styles of decades past; instead, Vaccarello presented them in sleek, streamlined silhouettes, often cinched at the waist to emphasize a feminine form. The fabrics were luxurious, heavy, and undeniably opulent – think rich wool cashmeres, plush velvets, and supple leather – reflecting the unwavering commitment to quality that defines the Saint Laurent brand. These overcoats, in shades of deep black, midnight blue, and rich burgundy, acted as the anchoring pieces of the collection, providing a sense of grounded sophistication against the more daring elements that followed.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was the consistent use of black. While not entirely monochromatic, the pervasive use of black – from the deepest, most matte shades to a slightly more reflective, almost glossy finish – created a cohesive and powerfully dramatic atmosphere. This wasn’t a depressing or somber black, however; it was a black that exuded confidence and a quiet sense of authority. It was the black of a perfectly tailored tuxedo, the black of a midnight rendezvous, the black of a woman who knows exactly what she wants and how to get it.
The collection's exploration of Saint Laurent fashion extended beyond the outerwear. The tailoring throughout was exceptional, showcasing Vaccarello's mastery of form and fit. Sharp-shouldered blazers, impeccably cut trousers, and exquisitely crafted dresses all contributed to the overall sense of refined power. Many of the dresses, while maintaining a classic silhouette, incorporated unexpected details: a daringly low neckline, a strategically placed slit, or a delicate, almost imperceptible embellishment. These subtle additions injected a sense of controlled sensuality into the collection, preventing it from becoming overly austere or rigid.
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